Let’s Talk Bait

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One of the most frequently asked questions that anglers on the Outer Banks ask is, “Which bait works best?”

It is a question with many answers, but the simple answer is, it depends.

Just like the number of available fish species, there are dozens of types of bait that work in our saltwater environment.

To be sure, some baits work better on specific species, while others are good for general use.

Let’s focus on three basic types of baits. There is live bait, fresh or natural bait and artificial or synthetic baits. Each type has its place in your arsenal.

In my opinion, using live bait is the most productive. Most saltwater species are more likely to choose a live bait over any other. Examples of these baits are shrimp, sand fleas, crabs, small bait fish, clams, finger mullet, menhaden and many types of worms. The reason that live bait is best is because it causes vibration, special sounds and a scent that attracts just about any predator.

Live baits are typically the most productive and should be the preferred bait of choice. These baits are typically readily available in our waters and are easy for most anglers to catch.

My next choice would be fresh or natural dead baits, which are easily obtained and work very well. Examples of these baits are bagged shrimp, squid and cut mullet. Some natural baits will be found in individual packages or larger frozen packs. The angler should prefer the freshest bait possible and try to avoid using baits that were previously frozen and then allowed to thaw. Keep in mind that local tackle shops go out of their way to source the freshest bait daily.

These baits typically work well because they appear as an easy food source. Occasionally, the angler’s presentation can increase the attractiveness of the bait.

Fresh baits should be a single-use bait because these baits lose scent and freshness over one day. So these should be discarded after one day and bought fresh the next day for best results.

Finally, another option is artificial baits, which are proven favorites for local fishermen.These baits include synthetic materials such as “Fish Bites,” soft plastic worms or fake fish-like lures.These baits and lures are also very productive in most settings.The advantage of artificial baits is their longevity and staying power. When using artificial soft plastics, always select the pre-scented types when available.

Most saltwater species have sharp teeth or a mechanism to separate the baits from the hooks, and using a tough soft plastic or synthetic material sometimes makes it difficult for the fish to steal the bait before being hooked.

A good rule to follow is to always check with the local tackle shop professionals before heading out. They can help determine which bait will provide you with the best opportunity for success. Local knowledge is a valuable tool and doesn’t cost a thing.

Also, don’t be afraid to change to a fresher piece of bait frequently or even a different bait all together.

So we go back to the question of “which bait works best?”

The answer is that all of them work well under certain conditions. And, as the angler, your ability to find the correct bait when targeting a certain species can increase your success rate.

Final tip – there is an old saying for maximum success. Always try to use a bait that will “match the hatch” and mimic the taste and smell of a predator’s juvenile food source.

Until next time – Tightlines – Capt Tony

Boat Ramp Wars

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I know this is a shore based fishing resource page but sometimes it’s nice to change it up a little. August means boat season is heating up so it’s a great time to talk about boat ramp etiquette.

Proper boat ramp etiquette means preparing your vessel away from the water, taking turns in order, and clearing the active lane immediately after launch.

Follow these key rules to keep traffic moving safely: prep in the staging area, launch without blocking the ramp, and park your vehicle properly.

Before You Reach the Ramp

  • Do your prep work early: Put in your drain plug, load your safety gear, take off tie-downs, and test the engine while parked in the prep or staging area.
  • Wait your turn: Line up in order and do not cut in front of others who are waiting for their turn at the ramp.
  • Use courtesy lighting: Dim or turn off your vehicle’s bright headlights if you are launching or loading in the dark so you do not blind other drivers.

On the Ramp and Dock

  • Never block the ramp with gear: Do not load coolers, extra passengers, or gear onto the boat while it sits on the ramp. Do all final loading after the boat is in the water and moved away from the active lane.
  • Clear the ramp fast: As soon as the boat is off the trailer, one person should move the boat to the courtesy dock or idle out into the water while the driver pulls the vehicle away.
  • Share dock space: Tie your boat securely using short lines at the end or side of the dock so you do not hog space and block other incoming or outgoing boaters.

Parking and Retrieving

  • Park in designated spots only: Leave your truck and trailer inside the proper marked stalls, taking up only a single space so you do not block turning lanes.
  • Reverse the process on retrieval: Get your vehicle ready in the staging area before pulling down to load the boat back onto the trailer. Pull the plug and drain live wells in the designated cleanup area away from the ramp to stop the spread of invasive species.

Courtesy goes a long way between boaters. Never know they might even share one of their favorite fishing spots.

Until next time – Captain Tony

Know Your Knots

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When anglers talk about their fishing gear, secret locations and special techniques, they seem to ignore one of the most important parts of their system. The fishing knot. Most anglers are very complacent about knots. They typically will just tie them and forget them. Usually, they are tied once and unless they change a jig head or add a line, these are good for the day, a week or longer.

But little do most anglers realize that the knot is the weakest part of their fishing gear and should be re-tied periodically.  And if they are not tied correctly, they could cost the angler not only their catch but the gear and rigging.

There are dozens of different fishing knots used by anglers. But there are only several that are actually needed.  They fall into three categories: line to line, line to tackle or gear “tight”, and line to tackle or gear “loose”.

Let’s talk about the first type: line to line. Knots that work best for tying line to lines are 1) double uni-knots, 2) simplified blood knot and 3) albright knot. These are all very easy to tie and will perform well in most circumstances. The first two are used on lines of equal diameter. While the Albright knot can be used on equal or unequal diameter lines.

The second type of knots is the line to tackle “tight”. Knots that hold the line to the tackle are a single uni-knot, Palamor knot, improved clinch knot, and snelling knot. Each of these knots are suitable for securing the tackle to the end of the leader.

The third type of knot is the line to tackle “loose”. This category contains a doppler loop knot, double surgeon’s knot and spider hitch. These knots allow anglers to create loops or a loose connection that will give the hook or lure more action.

There are many more knots to choose from such as Bimini Twist and FG knots. Braid, monofilament and fluorocarbon respond a little differently to these knots. So each one has a place on your list. This is only a sample list of the most popular and frequently used knots so it’s important to learn which one works best.

Want to learn more about knots? There are dozens of YouTube videos for great “how-to” videos to give a hands-on demostration.

Remember knots are the weakest link in your gear set up so it is imperative that you re-tie your knots at least daily. And while you are inspecting your knots, it could also be a great time to check the condition of your other components and connections.

Until next time – Tightlines – Capt. Tony